By Terry Hannum
Contributing Writer
July 14, 2008 07:35 am There are two types of people in this country: those who know how to grill and those who wish they did but enjoy the fine talents of the aforementioned group. Those who grill can be all-around culinary greats, or they can specialize in this one area of mouthwatering genius. Either have their criteria for what is necessary to make their barbecuing a success. The grill, the charcoal, the marinade, temperatures and the meat or vegetable to be cooked all have an important part in great grilling. Those people who show talent above the coals will explain that the alignment of all these factors hold importance in the outcome. Though there will be many who dispute the opinions of what kind of grill is best, the pros do not use a gas or propane unit. This does not mean that really good food cannot come from a gas grill; it does mean that the true essence of barbeque needs the heat and smoke to come from wood or charcoal. Shallow grills are the most difficult to work with, experts say, because having the meat or vegetables so close to the heat source burns and dries food quickly. Assistant Manager and Caterer Daryl Brower of Brooks' House of Bar-B-Q's on state Route 7 in the East End of Oneonta says that one of the secrets of Brooks' success comes from the method of grilling that it uses. Brower explained that the meat needs to be at least two feet from the coals so that the cooking is slow and even. For the home griller, a two-foot height might be difficult to attain and it can be modified some with cooking units that are smaller than what Brooks' uses. A common backyard grill is a kettle-type model such as the Weber. Proper heat control and smoke can be attained using the airflow devices on the top and bottom of the kettle. Charcoal and temperatures Rob Clark is a frequent visitor to this region from Colorado and he would be welcome into the homes of anyone who wanted to taste masterfully grilled food. Clark spoke about all of the factors that influence smoky success, but his first comments concerned the fire. "Know your fire, how hot it is and where the hot spots are on your grill," he said. Avoid "fueled" charcoal (charcoal that is self-lighting) and select plain or woodchip briquettes, or mesquite or apple wood, if available. Brower of Brooks' added to this, emphasizing that starting the coals well in advance of putting the food ensures that the charcoal bed produces an evenly hot temperature. Marinade Artisan marinades abound in most grocery stores and have plenty of flavor choices, but pricing is usually high for a product that can be made from scratch. The complex flavors of some marinades can overpower the actual meat or vegetable taste and the rich smoky essence. Clark avoids sugar in marinades, as the sugar can burn before the food is done. He recommends learning how to cook the food before getting carried away with custom sauces and marinades. Brooks', Millers Barbecue and Wilson's Barbecue are some of the region's great masters of large grilling challenges and each has a special marinade recipe that is worth following. The food Similar to the idea that "you get what you pay for," anything that you put on grill needs to be of quality. Brooks' specializes in large and meaty chicken halves; it also purchases thick and full ribs from reliable companies. Clark agrees with this, and he claims that grass-fed animals are the very best, in his experience. His ultimate favorite grilled creation is the full breast of an organically raised chicken marinated with a Brooks' type sauce. Sal, of Sal's Traditional Meat Market on state Route 10 in Bloomville, said that the best beef that he sees is a grass-fed animal that was finished on grain. Special recipe hints from the specialist Clark's recipe for an excellent and inexpensive chicken wing sauce that is "fortified" is a surprisingly easy creation. Takeg a 12-ounce bottle of hot sauce, such as Frank's brand and remove the top inch of sauce. Set aside to refill the bottle later. With gloves on, quarter two habanero peppers and fit into the slightly empty bottle of sauce. Store this bottle in the refrigerator for one to two weeks before using. The method gives a fresh pepper taste to finished wing. Grill the chicken wings with no sauce to absorb the smoky charcoal flavor until golden-brown, then toss with the fortified sauce until well-coated. Clark then returns the coated chicken wings to the grill for a final few minutes to dry some of the sauce onto the skin. This method is healthier than the traditional deep fat fryer method of making chicken wings because some of the fat drips off while grilling. Clark offered a recipe and advice on a "dry" chicken rub that coats the meat with a powder made from three parts Old Bay spice mix with one part cayenne pepper, one part black pepper and one part garlic powder. After chicken is grilled, toss with a little butter to moisten, and then toss with the dry rub mixture to coat to taste. Clark also recommends finding smoked salt to put on pork chops as a simple and delicious preparation. Five other great hints to good grilling 1) Larger beef cuts, especially, benefit from a few hours between the refrigerator and grill. Starting at room temperature can result in a more tenderness. For better results, don't put your still-frozen meat on the grill. 2) Though kebobs look picture-perfect with alternating items neatly arranged on a skewer, pro grillers put like items together on each skewer so they all get cooked to perfection (for example, all meat on one stick, all onion on another and so on). 3) Use tongs when possible once you start grilling. You can lose juice if you use a fork to turn the meat. The puncture releases the moist juices and causes flames to scorch meat. 4) Some of the grass-fed beef and especially buffalo, while delicious in flavor, can be tougher, and should be thinly sliced when serving. 5) Don't forget the vegetables! A vegetable medley cooked in a proper grilling basket is a wonderful accompaniment to any grilled meat. Try onions, whole mushrooms, peppers, carrots, zucchini, asparagus and green beans. Drizzle a little olive oil, and season with salt and pepper and a little fresh rosemary and thyme. A roasted Anaheim or Poblano pepper, skinned, seeded and spread open up can be added to a cheeseburger for amazing flavor. The meat that isn't meat is the portabella mushroom. These saucer-size mushrooms can be stuffed with any combination of things, or just marinated as you would do meat, and grilled. They have the excellent trait of absorbing the smoky grill flavor. This is the season to be satiate in the smoky goodness of grilling. Remember that all of the pros started somewhere, and practice leads to new levels of perfection. Local producers and growers have the freshest items to ensure that your efforts will be a mouthwatering, belly-filling success.
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