Bovina native returns to roots with pop-up restaurant

ContributedGoldenrod, a 'pop-up' restaurant using food sourced almost entirely from within Delaware County, is at 53 Main St. in Delhi. 

Earlier this year, Carver Farrell, 43, returned to his roots — personal and agricultural — when he launched Goldenrod at 53 Main St. in Delhi.

The former New York City restaurateur and upstate native said he brought his culinary prowess back upstate to be part of Delaware County’s dawning farm-to-table movement.

“I grew up in Bovina, went to school in Delhi and my mother had a small farm growing organic vegetables,” he said. “I moved to the city in the early ‘90s and have been between there and here ever since, but I love it here. Being here — it’s home.

“There’s a bit of an agricultural renaissance going on in Delaware County,” he said. “It’s always been an agricultural community and some sectors have struggled, but right now there are a lot of young people in the area excited to be farming again. That was sort of the impetus (for Goldenrod) — to showcase and highlight what’s being grown and produced super locally.”

Because of its focus on farm-fresh fare, Goldenrod will be seasonal, operating as a pop-up eatery through October, Farrell said. Goldenrod opened June 9.

“We’re kind of just taking it a day at a time and … operating in what used to be the Quarter Moon Cafe,” he said. “My friend (and fellow chef) Jonah Shaw … has continued to run his catering business from this space, but hasn’t operated the restaurant portion for years, so we’re just popping up in the space for the season.”

Early favorites, Farrell said, have included Goldenrod’s goat ragu over wide, handmade “kerchief” pasta; sourdough bread baked in-house and served with local Cowbella butter; and potato flatbread topped with homemade ricotta that blends goat and cow milk.

“We’re handwriting the menu and it changes weekly, based on what we get at the farmers’ market and what the various farms we work with have available,” he said.

Farrell said he recruited a team of kitchen co-creators to help bring Goldenrod to life.

“We have a three-person team in the kitchen and we’re all chefs,” he said. “So it’s a collaborative thing and we’re all coming up with ideas.”

Joining Farrell are husband-and-wife chefs Joe Aponte and Stephanie Hirsch of California and baker and pastry expert Katie Phelan, who previously worked with Farrell in New York City.

“I convinced all these people to move here and, so far, we’re having an amazing time," he said. "It’s an amazing place.”

Customer response, he said, has been positive.

“People are really excited when they find that they know the farms and the people where this stuff comes from,” he said. “That’s definitely something people are responding to.”

Noting that Goldenrod’s clientele is a mix of locals and visiting second homeowners, Farrell added, “It’s been really interesting to see. Thursday and Sunday nights have actually been our busiest, but we’ve gotten a great response.”

Goldenrod is open from 5 to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday and 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday.

For more information or to view the week’s menu, find Goldenrod on Facebook, visit goldenrod607.com or follow Goldenrod607 on Instagram. For reservations, call 746-8875.

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